Half a Dozen of the Best Fall City Breaks in the Continent for an Abundance of Culture and Fabulous Dining
The Greek Capital
Rugged inlets and beautiful beaches form the magnificent combination that is the Athens Riviera. Therefore at the end of an autumn day, I found myself with a not unpleasant dilemma: where to go to relax bones still aching for a last splash of summer sun. For this city offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a coastline of more than 40 miles dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would covet.
Out of season, the coasts of the region still have a strong appeal, as I discovered when taking a dip into a setting sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for rejuvenation in marine blue waters ready to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.
With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the spectacular view of the bay it sits on. In a nod to bygone eras, the meze is served on big platters.
Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its shore: natural elevations within view of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for strollers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to escape a metropolis that extends across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – holders of wonderful titles such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Hill of the Muses – are a must.
In my view, this ancient capital is the continent's most soulful and sublime.
If you climb the top of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s tallest peak, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the prize is a spectacular vista of the whole gulf and the offshore isles.
If you want to be in the center, the ancient Plaka district remains the ideal location. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the north side of the Parthenon from about €140 B&B. In the vicinity, a popular restaurant is a preferred restaurant with residents and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With views of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are highly evocative and ideal for warm autumn evenings – for a real treat head to Kuzina or the award-winning fine dining establishment.
Palermo
Believe Neapolitan margherita is the ultimate in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer Sicilian pizza, a tender, well-risen slice of bread topped with rich, onion-heavy sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Savory, satisfying and cozy, it’s sold in bakeries, stands and stalls throughout the town (Via Maqueda in the old town usually has multiple sellers).
We try it at a stand on a central square, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff serve slices of sfincione, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a few tables under the trees outside, but we eat as we stroll into the city along narrow Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t always be in summer. As heatwaves swept Europe this year, the mercury in Palermo reached 40C in the shade. At the summer's peak one sunbaked corner hit a record 158F at the surface.
We wander the streets and enjoy how its rich past is written in its architecture.
Now, as the climate rise to 75F by mid-afternoon, we can explore the metropolis and savour how its heritage is visible in its roads. Passing baroque and art nouveau palaces, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; Piazza Pretoria, with its 16th-century fountain, placed under colonial times; and the impressive cathedral, built on the location of a ancient Islamic temple.
On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the origins of which also stretch back over 1,000 years. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still lively and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we stop for a classic pani câ meusa, which is surprisingly OK, with its mildly sugary “filling” set off by cheese topping. The vendor is particularly proud of his offal specialty but, I’m sorry, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.
We’re glad to head back to more peaceful the old quarter, the former Arab quarter to the eastern part, which was damaged in the World War II and declined for years before being revitalized this century. Maison Butera (ocean-facing doubles from €161 with breakfast) is a four-room B&B with many attractions nearby. Up the street is Palazzo Butera, a baroque grand building restored and relaunched in recently to display the Valsecchi art collection, which includes works by contemporary artists and pop art icons.
Next day we walk a short distance to the city's gardens, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are singing their hearts out as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the time will change and the cold season will start. We enjoy a final days in the light.
The Austrian Capital
While lamenting the end of summer and spending time at seaside spots and swimming areas on the branches of the Danube, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a city of green spaces and manicured gardens, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which exchange their green canopy for a golden and ochre glow the Austrians call Goldener Herbst.
I leave behind the grandiose architecture and old streets of the downtown. South-west of it, a famous park extends from the grand Habsburg summer residence, where the gilt isn’t reserved for the inside, and makes its way into pathways of towering bronzed hedgerows and curved walkways that lead to the bright building.
To the east, in the city’s Prater Park, I stroll beneath the shady trees of the main avenue, an avenue that’s almost five kilometers long and centuries-old. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled a trendy hotel (doubles from $85 B&B) is a perfectly placed retreat.
In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging parks and fostering local culture), the fall brings a abundance of fresh produce on menus. Squash soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a wood-panelled pub such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a breaded cutlet.
Vienna is a city of green areas and landscapes that swap their green cover for a golden and ochre glow.
Little known, Vienna is the only European capital to produce wine within its urban area, with 700 hectares of vineyards. There are 14 designated city hiking trails, known as walking routes. Route one leads you through the vintner lands of a district. Settle in a slope wine tavern such as a local winery, drinking a zesty white wine with a Brettljause (an assortment of sliced meats and dairy), while soaking up the sublime city vista.
The days are getting shorter, but now is the perfect time to stroll among Vienna’s stately palaces, galleries and old homes – a {cultural crop|